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travel

cracking kraków

December 12, 2021

part 2 of our poland trip! kraków! 

day 1

we arrived fairly late in the afternoon (after a really comfortable train ride, mind you–poland’s rly got their public transport down ??) so we wandered around the centre of town and had dinner. 

we walked around the cloth hall and did a spot of souvenir shopping–i got some really nice jewellery and such nice wooden trinkets! we also visited rynek underground, which is a sprawling museum/archaeological site under the cloth hall. 

venison dumplings
wild boar steak
apple pie

we decided to treat ourselves for dinner and had a three-course meal at pod aniolami! i had venison dumplings, wild boar steak, and homemade apple pie. it was honestly the best meal i had during my entire trip to poland! all their food is based on polish culinary tradition but elevated to another level. the interior of the restaurant is so beautiful too–we dined in the gothic cellars and the ambience was so unique! 

day 2

the majority of our day was spent at auschwitz-birkenau and wieliczka salt mine.

we decided to book in for a guided tour and i really would recommend it. i often find if i’m spending my whole day at museums, i start to zone out when reading information panels and i really didn’t want that to happen.

the trip to auschwitz-birkenau was really interesting but also really harrowing–you definitely need to mentally prepare yourself before going. i didn’t take many pictures but one thing that remains seared into my mind is the pile of glasses taken from the prisoners. seeing them cracked and bent and heaped up was honestly haunting. i’m not sure why it was this display particularly that stuck with me but maybe it’s to do with how vulnerable people are/feel without their sight?

we were then taken to wieliczka salt mine and had lunch at karczma halit, a restaurant nearby. the portions are really hearty and they gave me such an absurd amount of bread with my meal.

the salt mine was one of the sites on the first-ever unesco world heritage list and it’s truly incredible. there’s an underground lake, statues carved from the salt rock and even entire chapels! st kinga’s chapel is the biggest and contains a wall relief of the last supper as well as salt crystal chandeliers ?? who even knew salt could look this pretty??

when we got back to central kraków, we decided to go to the pinball museum. all the machines are free to play! they range from vintage machines from the 50s to a modern guardians of the galaxy one. they also have other classic arcade games too–i spent an absolute age playing asteroids!

day 3

we had a pretty relaxed day with the only things on the agenda being wawel royal castle and the celestat. 

kraków’s historical center, including wawel hill, was another one of the sites on the first ever unesco world heritage list! we started our day with a guided tour of the state rooms in wawel royal castle–the ceilings and the wall tapestries are particularly gorgeous.

we also visited wawel cathedral and the entry ticket included access to the royal tombs as well as sigismund tower, which houses a bell that weighs almost 13 tonnes!

we had lunch at judah food market in the district of kazimierz, kraków’s historical jewish quarter. we got the most amazing pulled pork burgers from andrus food truck! highly recommend–their menu is so extensive! 

we then went to the celestat which is maybe one of the nichest museums i’ve ever been to? it contains a collection showcasing the history of the cracovian fowler brotherhood, a group of hunters and marksmen that worship a silver fowl (??), but every year, it also houses the entries for kraków’s annual szopka (christmas crib) competition. the practice of making these cracovian szopkas is so unique that it’s on the unesco intangible cultural heritage list! you can see some incredibly detailed displays made by craftspeople as well as cute nativity scenes made by children.

we had a little rest in cafe camelot and had some hot drinks and a slice of tart.

then we went for dinner at chłopskie jadło. i had gołąbki, which are cabbage rolls stuffed with pork and rice. they really remind me of romanian sarmale (which was my all-time favourite food when staying with my host family in baia mare).

day 4

our flights were in the late afternoon so we took the morning to visit one more museum and snap some final pics of the city. 

we went to st florian’s gate and the barbican and grabbed some doughnuts for breakfast. 

we visited the museum of pharmacy– yet another niche museum!

we swung by the collegium maius, which has a little museum that includes some of copernicus’s equipment in its permanent collection. the highlight, however, is the clock in the courtyard–it displays a procession of historical figures accompanied by music at certain times in the day!

we visited the wawel dragon statue (it breathes fire!!) and we wrapped up our trip at bar mleczny pod temidą, another milk bar. you can’t beat cheap and cheerful food! 

i really had such an amazing time in poland across both cities (you can see the warsaw trip here) and i really can’t wait to explore more of eastern europe soon! 

i will say, though, i found most of the food quite stodgy (i don’t think my body is built to process any carbs apart from rice) but nevertheless, the vibes were immaculate!

soph x

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lenaanus

lenaanus
appreciation post for @alinarburwitz bc i rly fcki appreciation post for @alinarburwitz bc i rly fckin appreciate her !!! 

alina sometimes i think about how serendipitous it was we even met in the first place and i honestly feel so so lucky to have someone that i’ve never rly spent all that much physical time with but that i know is just gonna be on this rollercoaster with me forever (like okay we spend concentrated bouts of time together sometimes but in the grand scheme of things considering we didn’t/don’t do high school, uni or work together and we don’t live in the same city, it’s probs not that much time at all?)

i’m so so grateful to u for snapping me out of my funk yesterday and also just for so many other moments in the past decade. a highlight rly has to be u bringing me forbidden pizza when i was locked up at home in an eczema outbreak 💀

idk like i’ll probably tell u all this when we speak tonight bc i’m a soft soft gal at heart but bro rly, thank u for always being there at my worst and also for having good enough boundaries to not be there when u rly can’t/don’t need to? does that make sense? 

hope u know i’m always here for u too 

love u so so SO much
was in a poetry workshop/masterclass/q&a with @ant was in a poetry workshop/masterclass/q&a with @anthony_anaxagorou yesterday - fun fact - heterogeneous was the first english-language poetry book i bought unrelated to high school or uni studies and ’twas a genuinely monumental moment for me i think. i also bought it when volunteering for stanza which was what led me to join the scottish bpoc writers network and kickstarted a lot of things but NEWAYS am getting off track. he was talking about things like complicated poems having more longevity, ur readership being more intelligent than u, having porousness in poems for reader agency, staying away from aphorisms, the importance of reading EXCESSIVELY and a lot of other things (i think i took like 5 pages of notes lmao more than any uni lecture ever 💀)

SO i picked up this book again - time winds by alfred kisubi (which i bought in york and started but struggled with) bc it’s time to read excessively again and delve into complicated poetry!! in the intro it says his poems are difficult but this was the first time i think i’ve ever read a poetry book where the bulk was poems that i just found impenetrable. not even rly bc of the language itself but bc of my ignorance regarding ugandan history & culture like i was anchored to the glossary but still had to do so much googling 😭😭 BUT decided to give it another go and in amongst the brain juice depletion i found some poems that rly stuck with me

lil carousel for u guys make of it what u will i have a headache now partially bc of too much thinking but also bc i’ve been looking at screens too much and not sleeping well bc of twin flame spiritual nonsense so yh 

love u guys byebye
and u thought the york photo dump was over 💀 and u thought the york photo dump was over 💀
🤍 🤍
me looking cute & also wholesome family moments wh me looking cute & also wholesome family moments when my parents aren’t driving me absolutely bonkers // shirt from @koukoukreations 🤍
work was ridiculously busy this weekend but had so work was ridiculously busy this weekend but had so much fun!! 

had a rly cute sunday lunch & ensuing stroll with the head of department (who i was staying with 🤠) and even tho had to do assembly, 4 hours of workshops, a careers talk and a teacher showcase (and ofc the mountains of paperwork afterwards) on my day off, still had such a good time 🥺🥺 the students were all super super sweet and here are some highlights from the feedback: 

i was surprised by… “there is mcdonald’s in france”

a session like this could be better if… “it can’t be better” 

the best bit was… “how nice the teacher was and [how] encouraging she was” 

rly do feel like i’m smashing my career these days 🥰🥰🥰 

also side note if you’re ever in marlow, go to @thecedarmarlow - the owner & staff are all so lovely and we had such interesting chats about life! also their food recs (and food ofc) are perfect - genuinely one of the best sandwiches i’ve ever had 🤍
day out in sheff!! ur fave touch-me-not hardy chin day out in sheff!! ur fave touch-me-not hardy chinese special (i will be responding only to this name in the future) had brunch then chilled in the botanical gardens - the latter is vv cute in the sun highly recommended 🥺🥺 // also i always overestimate the amount of biscoff i can eat in one go - was delicious but boy oh boy was stuffed 😭😭 // pls ignore the state of my fringe in pic 4// ALSO katara hair loopies are finally achievable !!! 

dress from @allsaints 🤍 #gifted
always feel v connected to myself & the universe w always feel v connected to myself & the universe whenever i look at the moon
prefer up & down with exid but i guess elvis will prefer up & down with exid but i guess elvis will do
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