Day 1 coverage is here! (my sections are in the text below as always)
Jamie Wei Huang’s SS19 collection is an homage to youth filled with wistfulness and whimsy.
It’s inspired by the story of a girl who goes swimming, misses her bus, and then has to walk home. Consequently, layering is a key component of the show. Many of the looks consist of one-piece swimsuits underneath sheer trousers, tops, or dresses, which could emanate wet clothing or an easy beach cover-up.
A colour palette of cool blues recalls the ocean whilst bubblegum pink recalls girlhood. Stripes are heavily featured and we see ornamental pillows either held by models or attached to the front of clothing- perhaps these represent striped pyjamas and slumber parties? There’s also a mellow sportswear vibe throughout – perhaps the most interesting item is the reinvented gym bag now shrunken down and made in coloured vinyl!
This collection succeeds in straddling the line between nostalgic and modern, fanciful and unaffected, skilfully making us long for a time that’s gone whilst still relishing the moment we’re in.
Nicopanda’s SS19 offering is an homage to disco and the 90s club scene.
Striking neons, bold animal prints, and shimmering sequins make up the aesthetic of a hardcore partier. Streetwear and glamour go hand in hand as we see an equal measure of oversized hoodies and slinky dresses. Matching tracksuits, skin-tight velour, voluminous ruffles, and funky cowboy hats round off this boisterous collection.
Collaborations this season include a 10-piece range of club-ready streetwear made in conjunction with the estate of Divine. These items feature never-before-seen imagery and prints from the archives of the legendary disco singer.
Another partnership is that with Merch by Amazon. For SS19, this involves a collection of twelve colourful printed t-shirts featuring artwork by Hilton Dresden, an NYC-based artist and activist. Nicopanda plan on continuing to use this Amazon space to work with young creatives all around the world- undoubtedly, there will be many imaginative and unexpected items in the brand’s future!
Xiao Li’s SS19 collection reminds me of lazy days at the seaside.
Clothing is mainly striped with sherbet yellow, sky blue, and bright red paired with white, thus mirroring sticks of rock (a seaside staple!) as well as deckchairs.
Ruffled shoulders and gathered sleeves add a touch of femininity and shape to the silhouettes, whilst materials resembling bubble wrap (seen in the long overcoat) and iridescent cellophane (seen in the wide-brim sun hats) add textural intrigue.
Bags resemble rolled-up towels and a translucent gingham is an ode to summer picnics. A special mention has to go to the thick-strapped utilitarian white harnesses which serve to add strong shoulder pieces to otherwise casual looks, as well as a sense of toughness to an otherwise light and easy collection.
images: Tegan Rush