love love love this collection every season
A new SONGZIO collection is always something on which we wait with bated breath. Although in the UK, the brand’s shows have never been considered a media sensation, they don’t need to be. Instead, Mr Zio Song chooses to stun the audience by creating garments that convey a quiet, thoughtful beauty, which continues to linger in our minds.
This season, the collection was entitled “Crossing Veils” and inspiration came from the phrase “Man, in his night, searches for his own light”. With allusions to either inner peace or an internal North Star, we can take this to mean Mr Zio wants to search for and uproot his emotions while he brings them to the forefront of his collection.
As we expect from the brand, the clothing displays contrasts. Sharp, tailored jackets are juxtaposed with looser, fringed trousers; modern, monochromatic outerwear is worn against playful watercolour-printed innerwear.
Alongside the brand’s long-standing affinity for art, which Mr Zio Song demonstrates by conceptualising each collection through painting his own canvases, inspiration this season also comes from Velasquez’s works of the Infanta Margarita Teresa.
Strong, vertical stripes feature heavily on suits this season and they appear in a royal blue and orange, a colour palette which is reminiscent of Velasquez’s paintings; the pieces, however, also reflect Velasquez’s technique. As he painted with loose brushstrokes that only displayed the whole image when viewed at a certain distance, SONGZIO has also created suits that only appear as simple pinstripes when viewed from far away. Upon closer inspection, we can see that each vertical stroke also has faint, scratch-like horizontal markings. These symbolise SONGZIO’s sensitive emotions trying to peek through harsh barriers.
This season, SONGZIO has tried to suggest the dissonance between an object and its emotions and thereby puts into question why people should hide their feelings at all. In a world where men are often told to suppress their true emotions for fear of feeling weak, SONGZIO is allowing his to tentatively peek through in a beautiful display of art and love.