Edeline Lee’s work has always been about creating sophisticated and feminine pieces with a focus on how the so-called ‘Future Lady’ dresses.
This mission statement led to her taking inspiration from Hannah Höch, a collage artist of the Dada movement, for her AW17 collection.
‘I was inspired by how Höch’s work concurrently addressed issues of female identify and her historical context,’ states Edeline Lee.
‘We are also experiencing an uncertain moment in history. We have a strong idea of how a ‘lady’ was supposed to look in the past. Women these days are more advanced, capable, independent and able to pursue their own potential than at any other time in history. But how can she dress now with relevance, power, femininity, grace and dignity, without being nostalgic, unnatural or uncomfortable?’
Taking this question as her departure point and answering it through her collection, we therefore see fitted tailoring combined with comfortable fabrics.
Textured Worsted Wool and Flou Bubble Jacquard are layered together in muted primary colours of navy blue, brick red and saffron yellow on top of slate greys, which is reminiscent of Höch’s collages. Merino Wool and Boiled Virgin Wool Boucle are also used for seasonal knitwear and outerwear pieces.
Whilst waiting to enter the presentation space, we listened to concert pianist Belle Chen performing classical pieces with a soundscape of contemporary everyday information playing in the background-city sounds and celebrity news reports, for example. As we queued further, more noise was broken down with electronic percussion by Jaeva. The set was designed by Kyung Roh Banniwart and was reminiscent of a dilapidated warehouse, with faded wooden panels providing a backdrop for the models.
The combination of music, art, and fashion created a living, breathing collage which although being inspired by the past, firmly finds its place in the 21st century.